Berat, Albania

Church of St. Mary of Blachernae

The Church of St. Mary of Blachernae (Kisha e Shën Mëri Vllahernës) is a small Byzantine church inside the walls of Berat Castle, among the houses of the hilltop quarter above the city. It takes its name from the famous church of the Virgin at Blachernae in Constantinople.

The patterned brick-and-stone front of St Mary of Blachernae inside Berat Castle
Photo: Marcin Konsek · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

About Church of St. Mary of Blachernae

The church dates mainly from the 13th century, possibly rising on the foundations of an earlier one, and has a rectangular narthex. Its greatest treasure is its cycle of 16th-century frescoes, painted in 1578 by Nikolla, son of the celebrated icon painter Onufri; the date is recorded in an inscription above the doorway leading from the narthex into the nave. The church has been protected as a Cultural Monument since 1948.

The church is usually kept locked, so a look inside may need to be arranged locally, but it remains a rewarding stop on any walk through the castle. Close by, the Onufri National Museum, housed in the Cathedral of the Dormition, displays icons by Nikolla’s father and makes a perfect companion visit, while the castle lanes lead on to other churches and viewpoints over the town.

Small, ancient and atmospheric, it offers a window onto the art of Berat’s celebrated icon painters.

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