Gjirokastër, Albania

Church of the Dormition, Labovë e Kryqit

The Church of the Dormition, also known as St. Mary’s Church, stands in the village of Labovë e Kryqit, across the Drino valley from Gjirokastër and a few kilometres from the town of Libohovë. It is considered one of the most significant examples of Byzantine architecture in Albania.

The tall brick drum of Labova e Kryqit's Byzantine church behind its arcaded porch
Photo: Pasztilla aka Attila Terbócs · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons

About Church of the Dormition, Labovë e Kryqit

Local tradition credits its foundation to the Byzantine emperor Justinian I in the 6th century, though the building seen today is generally dated between the 10th and 13th centuries. For centuries the church kept a fragment of the True Cross, said to be an imperial gift and set in a gold-covered cross, which gave the village its name, ‘Labovë of the Cross’. The relic disappeared in 1989.

Outside, the church impresses with its high circular dome and walls of stone and brick laid in decorative patterns, including herringbone designs found on Byzantine churches across Epirus. Inside, restoration has revealed several layers of wall paintings beneath frescoes from the early 19th century. The church is usually locked, but the key can normally be found by asking in the village.

Pair it with Libohovë and its castle for a memorable half-day out from Gjirokastër.

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