Veliko Tarnovo

The Tsarevets Fortress, with its walls, gates and Patriarchal church on the hilltop, is the city's great landmark and hosts an evening sound and light show. Inside, the restored Patriarchal Cathedral is decorated with striking modern murals, and at the edge of the hill stands Baldwin's Tower, named after the Latin emperor said to have been held captive there.

Below it, the craft street of Samovodska Charshia keeps traditional workshops alive. Across the river, the old Asenova quarter gathers medieval churches such as the Church of the Holy Forty Martyrs, and the Monument of the Asen Dynasty rises on a bend of the Yantra. Nearby is the village of Arbanasi, with fortified houses and richly painted churches.

Veliko Tarnovo lies on the main route between Sofia and Romania, and our East Balkans: Albania to Romania in 14 Days tour spends a day here before continuing to Bucharest. It is a natural overnight stop on any journey through northern Bulgaria.

The town is about three hours by road from Sofia. Its streets are steep and cobbled, so comfortable shoes help. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, and evenings are lovely, when the fortress is lit up and the views from the old town's terraces are at their best.

Gallery photos: MrPanyGoff (CC BY-SA 3.0), Pudelek (Marcin Szala) (CC BY-SA 3.0), Pudelek (Marcin Szala) (CC BY-SA 3.0), yeowatzup (CC BY 2.0), Pudelek (Marcin Szala) (CC BY-SA 3.0), MrPanyGoff (CC BY-SA 3.0) · Wikimedia Commons