In the far east of the country, beyond Korçë, two lakes sit in a bowl of mountains at just over 850 metres. Great Prespa is shared between Albania, Greece and North Macedonia; Small Prespa lies mostly in Greece. Together they make one of the quietest corners of the Balkans and one of its most important wetlands.
Maligrad island
The island of Maligrad rises out of Great Prespa as a limestone rock, and on its cliff face sits the church of Saint Mary, cut partly into the stone in the fourteenth century. Fragments of fresco survive inside. Local boatmen from Pustec run visitors across when the water is calm; it is a short crossing and the approach, with the church appearing in the rock above you, is the memorable part.
The birds
Prespa is one of the strongholds of the Dalmatian pelican, among the largest freshwater birds in the world. They breed in the reedbeds and are most visible in spring. Cormorants, herons and a long list of migrants use the lakes as well, which is why birdwatchers come here when they could be on the coast.
Bring binoculars. The birds keep their distance, as they should, and the pleasure is in watching rather than approaching.
The villages
The Albanian shore is home to a Macedonian-speaking minority, and the villages around Pustec have their own language, churches and food. Fish from the lake — carp and belushka — appears on every menu. The pace is slow in a way that is becoming rare.
Getting there
Korçë is the natural base, about an hour and a half away by car on a road that climbs through forest and opens suddenly onto the lake. There is no useful public transport to the villages, so a car or a driver is effectively required. The road is paved and in reasonable condition.
Many travellers combine Prespa with Lake Ohrid to the north, which is an easy connection by car and makes a strong two-lake itinerary.
When to go
Late spring is the best single answer: the birds are active, the hills are green, and the summer heat has not arrived. Summer is pleasant at this altitude and quieter than anywhere on the coast. Autumn is beautiful and cold. Winter can be severe.
Practical notes
- Boat trips to Maligrad depend on weather; ask in Pustec in the morning.
- There are a handful of guesthouses around the lake, best booked ahead in August.
- Carry cash — card payment is rare in the villages.
- The area is a national park; stay on tracks near the reedbeds in breeding season.
Prespa is not on the way to anywhere, which is precisely what has preserved it. Give it a full day and a night, and it will feel like a different country from the Riviera.
Common questions
How do I get to Maligrad island?
Local boatmen from Pustec run visitors across when the water is calm. Ask in the village in the morning, as trips depend entirely on conditions on the lake.
What is the best time to see the pelicans?
Spring, when the Dalmatian pelicans are breeding and most active in the reedbeds. Bring binoculars: the colony is protected and you watch from a distance.
Where should I base myself for Prespa?
Korçë, about an hour and a half away, has the most choice. There are also a handful of guesthouses around the lake itself, which are best booked ahead in August.
