North of Vlora, the Narta lagoon spreads flat and silver behind the coast. In the middle of it is a small wooded island, and reaching it means walking a wooden footbridge a couple of hundred metres across the water. On the island, under cypress trees, stands the monastery of Saint Mary — Byzantine, probably thirteenth or fourteenth century, and one of the most atmospheric places in the country.
The crossing
The bridge is the experience. Low over still water, with the lagoon opening on both sides and the island ahead, it sets up the arrival perfectly. In the early morning the water is usually glass, and the cypresses reflect in it.
The monastery
The church is small, stone-built, with the compact proportions of Byzantine provincial architecture. The surrounding monastic buildings are partly restored. The island is quiet in a way that feels deliberate: tall cypresses, shade, the sound of water and birds.
The complex was used as a prison camp for a period in the twentieth century, a history worth knowing when you walk around it.
The lagoon
Narta is a working lagoon — salt pans operate on its edges and fishermen take eel, mullet and sea bass from it. It is also a protected area and a serious bird site: flamingos are regular, along with herons, egrets, avocets and large numbers of waders on migration.
The combination of monastery, salt flats and flamingos within a few kilometres is unusual even by Albanian standards.
Getting there
From Vlora it is about twenty-five minutes by car north towards Zvërnec village, where the bridge begins. Parking is at the shore. There is no entrance fee for the island.
Without a car, a taxi from Vlora is short and inexpensive, and boat trips from the city sometimes include the lagoon.
When to go
Early morning or late afternoon, any season. Light at both ends of the day transforms the crossing. Spring and autumn add migrating birds; summer is hot and bright on the open water.
What to combine it with
Vlora's waterfront and the Independence Museum are twenty minutes away. South of the city, the Karaburun peninsula boats leave from Orikum, and the Llogara pass begins the Riviera. A morning at Zvërnec and an afternoon on the coast road is a strong day.
Practical notes
- Dress respectfully — the church is a religious site.
- The bridge has no railings in places; mind small children.
- Bring binoculars for the lagoon birds.
- Mosquitoes appear at dusk near the water.
Of all the short trips in Albania, this is the one that delivers the most for the least effort: twenty-five minutes from a city, and you are walking across a lagoon to a medieval island monastery.
Common questions
How do you reach the island?
On foot, across a wooden footbridge a couple of hundred metres long. The crossing, low over still water with the cypresses ahead, is half the experience.
How old is the monastery?
The church of Saint Mary is Byzantine, probably thirteenth or fourteenth century. The complex was used as a prison camp for a period in the twentieth century.
Are there flamingos in the lagoon?
Regularly, along with herons, egrets, avocets and large numbers of waders on migration. Bring binoculars, and come early or late when the light is best.
