Its oldest fortifications probably date to the 5th–4th centuries BC and are attributed to the Chaonians, an ancient people of Epirus. Over the following centuries the hill passed through Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman hands, and the walls show work from several periods. In the 20th century many families moved down to the coast, leaving parts of the old town in ruins, though some houses have since been restored.
Inside the walls, look for the 13th-century Church of Saint Michael and the church of Panagia Kassopitra, which incorporates a preserved stretch of the ancient western wall. Wandering the lanes you will also pass the old mansion of Spyros Spyromilios, a leading Himariot figure of the early 20th century, along with roofless houses and quiet courtyards.
The reward for the uphill walk from town is the view: the open Ionian Sea, the bay of Livadhi Beach and, on clear days, the outline of Corfu on the horizon. Late afternoon brings the softest light.
