The hilltop was the heart of ancient Lissus, an Illyrian city whose massive stone walls date back to the 4th century BC. The fortress was rebuilt and strengthened in Roman and Byzantine times; Lezhë came under Venetian rule in 1393, the Venetians rebuilt the castle in 1440, and the Ottomans reconstructed it again in 1522. Each period left its mark, so a walk around the walls reads like a timeline of Albanian history.
Today visitors wander among layers of fortification: Illyrian masonry in the southern wall, a tower with a Roman arch on the south-eastern side, and inside the enclosure the ruins of Ottoman buildings, including a mosque. A road leads up the hill, and the climb is rewarded with panoramic views that are especially lovely in the late afternoon. Wear sturdy shoes, as much of the interior is overgrown and uneven.
Combine it with the Skanderbeg Memorial in the town below for a rewarding few hours in Lezhë.
