The river that runs through the valley is the Vermosh, the upper course of the Lim. Unusually for Albania, its waters do not flow to the Adriatic: they drain north into Montenegro and on, via the Drina, to the Danube.
Vermosh is a place for slow days: walking or cycling along the valley, cooling off in the river on hot afternoons and eating in family guesthouses that cook with produce from their own farms. The surrounding mountains offer hikes to high summer pastures, and the village church and old houses with wooden roofs reflect the traditions of Kelmend.
Vermosh lies at the end of the SH20 mountain road from Shkodër, beyond Tamarë and Lëpushë; the drive is long and winding but very scenic. The best time to visit is from late spring to early autumn. Combine it with Lëpushë and the hike to Maja e Vajushës for a two- or three-day trip to Kelmend.
