Between Himarë and Qeparo the coast road dips towards a bay so sheltered it looks artificial. On a low peninsula in the middle of it stands a stone fortress, triangular in plan, with its feet almost in the water. This is Porto Palermo, and it is the most photogenic ten minutes on the whole Riviera.
The castle
The fort is associated with Ali Pasha of Tepelena, the Ottoman governor whose ambition shaped much of southern Albania around 1800. Its three bastions enclose a vaulted interior of corridors and chambers, mostly bare, which you can walk through freely. From the roof the bay opens on both sides — one of those views that explains instantly why someone built here.
There is a small entrance fee and little in the way of interpretation, so a guide or a read beforehand adds a lot.
The submarine tunnel
Across the bay, cut into the rock, is a tunnel built to hide submarines during the communist period. It is part of the same military logic that produced the bunkers you see everywhere in Albania, scaled up to the size of a naval base. The site is no longer secret and boats pass it on the way round the headland; access on foot is restricted and changes, so ask locally rather than assuming.
The beaches
Two small pebble beaches sit either side of the causeway, shallow, clear and calm because the bay protects them. They are a good swim rather than a day's sunbathing — there is limited shade and few facilities. In August they are busy by midday; in June you may have them.
Getting there
Porto Palermo is on the SH8 coast road, about fifteen minutes south of Himarë and forty-five minutes north of Saranda. Any car makes it, and the turn-off is signed. Buses along the Riviera will drop you at the junction, leaving a short walk down.
Many travellers stop here as part of the drive between Vlora and Saranda. Give it an hour and a half rather than the fifteen minutes most people allow.
When to go
May to October. Early summer is best: the water is already warm enough, the light is clean, and the car park is not full. Late afternoon suits photography, with the sun behind you over the bay.
Practical notes
- Wear something with grip — the castle's internal stairs are worn and dark in places.
- Bring water; the kiosks are seasonal.
- Swimming shoes help on the pebbles.
- Combine with Qeparo's old village uphill, ten minutes away, for a strong half-day.
Of all the stops on the Albanian Riviera, this is the one where history and swimming sit in the same frame.
Common questions
How long do I need at Porto Palermo?
Allow an hour and a half rather than the fifteen minutes most people give it. That covers the castle, the roof and a swim at one of the two small beaches.
Can I visit the submarine tunnel?
Boats pass it on the way round the headland, but access on foot is restricted and the arrangements change. Ask locally rather than assuming it is open.
Is there an entrance fee for the castle?
Yes, a small one. There is little interpretation inside, so reading ahead or coming with a guide adds a great deal to the visit.
